2002 Jeep Liberty Limited 3.7, Ignition Key Issue

This Jeep came into the shop with a customer concern dealing with the ignition key.  The key would turn too far in the cylinder and would not crank or start the vehicle.  Also, when the key was turned back and taken out, the dash lights were staying on and causing the battery to drain.

***Another symptom of this failed part is when the key will not turn all the way to the off position to be removed.  Customers will complain that their key is stuck and they can't remove it.***

The battery cable was disconnected.  I started by removing the upper and lower steering covers.  You need a 20 Torx Head Bit to remove the two screws.  One is to the left of the steering wheel and the other is to the right.

 

 

I then dropped the lever for the tilt steering down so it was out of the way.

 



I then removed the upper and lower covers.  This allowed me to have better access to the key tumbler/lock cylinder. 

The black plastic piece around the outer part of the lock cylinder is the halo ring.  There are two plastic tabs that hold it in place.  I couldn't take a picture while removing it.  But in the photo below you can see the two tabs.  Just be careful not to overstress them and break them.

 

 

Next, on the bottom of the cylinder is a locking tang, with the key turned to the on position, depress the tang.  I used a pick, but a small screwdriver or the like would work fine too.

 

 

 

Once I depressed the tang, I pulled the cylinder from the housing.

 





Next, I had to remove the lock cylinder housing retaining screws.  The two screws holding this on are T10 Anti-Theft/Securtiy Torx Bits.  (These are a bit different from a normal torx bit headed screw.  The difference is the Anti-Theft torx bits have a hole in the center of them.)

I then removed the ignition switch (the electrical part) from the steering colum.  Once again, the screw is a T10 Anti-Theft/Security Torx Bit. 

 

 

I disconnected the electrical connector at the ignition switch (it has a red saftey tab that must be pushed back before the tab will release.)  I removed the ignition switch (the black piece in my hand) and the ignition actuator at the same time.  The ignition actuator is the white plastic piece attached to the switch.

Below is another photo of the two parts still attached.

I then removed the actuator from the switch.  I did this by gently pulling the actuator from the switch.  Once it was removed the problem was found.  The aluminum had broken off inside of the switch, allowing the key tumbler to turn freely.  You can clearly see the two aluminum pieces.

Here is the new ignition actuator. 

To reinstall, I simply fitted the actuator and the ignition switch together (if you are doing this be careful, the actuator can come apart.  The best way I have found to prevent this is to hold a finger at the back of the actuator as you push it into the switch; thus, keeping everything together.  If it does come apart on you, don't panic, it is easy to reassemble.)

I then reinstalled all the parts in the reverse order and the key turned as it should in the cylinder and the vehicle started right up.  I charged the battery because of the previous drain condition.  All is well!